CONTENTS

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CONTENTS LIST

 

foreword

by Lawrence Osborne 6

introduction 8

Witness 16

Senses

smell 22

Flower Culture 24

taste 26

Streetfood 28

Gastrothai 33

heat & damp 36

Se-waen 40

space 44

Sanam Luang 47

Background City 49

Third Places 51

Green Space 53

direction 56

Centre Points 57

Wayfinding 58

Feng Shui 60

flow 62

Walking 64

Cycling 68

Custom Transit 71

balance 74

looking 76

Vertical Living 78

Selfie City 82

Larkitecture 86

colour 88

Blossom Season 93

sacred 95

Brahmin 96

Rajprasong Shrines 100

All in One 105

Muslim-Thais 106

sixth sense 110

Animist Shrines 116

trance 118

Neo-Hindu 122

time 124

Timeline 125

Destiny 127

night 128

Partying 132

sanuk 135

libido 138

The Bangkok Noir 142

An LGBT Paradise? 145

touch 148

Massage 151

suffering 152

Happy Accident 153

Healing Hub 154

Hell Park 157

sound 158

Birdsong 160

Bang-Pop 164

sensors 166

Heart

thainess & the city 172

Royal Presence 174

Primate City 179

Krungthep or Bangkok? 182

becoming bangkokian 185

Mon 190

Indian-Thai 194

roots 196

Isaan Travelogue 198

Regional Rites 203

stir-fry 206

From Jek to Thai-Jiin 210

Chinese Revival 215

community 218

Roofless 225

Subcultures 228

Tin Town 231

market 234

Talad Nat 237

Monohoods 240

youth 245

Siam Square 250

T-Rap 256

creative city 258

Graffiti 267

Bangkoklyn 274

Face

memory 278

Mind the Gaps 285

Retro 288

Protukate 292

tourist trappings 294

Slogans 297

Urban Explorers 299

Backpackers 302

portrayals 304

True Fiction 308

The Indecisive Moment 311

Cinematic Krungthep 312

Messy Aesthetic 314

Reality TV and Reality 318

Theories of Bangkok 321

tides 324

Project Singapore 326

Bladerunneresque 332

appendices

Acknowledgements & Sources 336

Index 348

maps

Central Bangkok Map front

Greater Bangkok Map back